Nevin, who has been trying a series of valuable experiments on the potato and various sorts of grasses, and has also introduced many tasteful decorations. The Botanic Gardens, at Glasnevin, about a mile from Dublin, have lately been much improved under the superintendence of Mr. When Dublin presents a scene of the most enlivening gaiety, numbers of miserable beings may be seen lying half naked, and apparently half dead from coldĪnd hunger, on the parapets and the steps of the houses, their nightly resting places and the stranger, as he enters the hospitable abode which invites him to partake of the enjoyments and luxuries of life, is almost invariably saluted with the feeble cries and imploring accents of the wretched and the destitute. Dublin, I have said, is a city of lamentable contrasts: so is London but the contrasts of Dublin are brought more immediately together than those of the English metropolis.
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If the stranger be forcibly struck by the number and magnificence of the public buildings, and the general beauty of some of the streets, he is sure to be no less forcibly moved by the very different character of those parts which are termed "the Liberties." Here, narrow streets, houses without windows or doors, and several families crowded together beneath the same roof, present a picture of ruin, disease, poverty, filth, and wretchedness, of which they who have not witnessed it are unable to form a competent idea. Dublin is indeed a fine city but it is a city of lamentable contrasts. It in so many different ways, and with such a variety of objects - that I run but little risk of incurring censure by passing it over with a very hasty and superficial notice. So much has been said of Dublin within the last thirty years - so many travellers have described Having taken up my abode at Gresham's hotel, Sackville-street, I proceeded to the office of the Commissioners of the Irish Poor Inquiry, and received, from the proper authorities, particular directions in reference to my duties as one of the Assistant Agricultural Commissioners. The hills of Killiney, and the mountains of Wicklow, visible from the sea, are also of granite, which is used for buildings in the neighbourhood, and of which a large quantity is exported to Liverpool. The noble piers of Kingston, constructed of granite abounding in mica, present a splendid appearance when glittering in the sun, and are well calculated to produce upon the mind of a stranger, at the very threshold of the country as it were, a favourable impression of the energy, spirit, and perseverance of the Irish people. Not sufficiently clear to permit us to enjoy in perfection the first sight of the magnificent Bay of Dublin, justly celebrated as one of the finest in the world.
As the morning dawned, the floating sea-weed and polypi indicated our approach to land but, unfortunately, the atmosphere was The weather was fine and mild and at midnight, the moon shone so bright that many parts of the Welsh coast were clearly distinguishable.
On the 3d of July, 1835, I embarked on board the Post Office packet, from Liverpool, at five in the afternoon. Examination in the Barony of Kilconnel - Deterioration of marriage-feasts - Premature marriages - The Terrys - Dreadful case of revenge - Sufferings from hunger - Priests' dues - Substitutes for candles - Potatoes, the chief food of the labourers - The cabins of the poorest classes - Improvements at Crith Bog - Inequality of Grand-jury cess - Cattle of the district - Ahascragh Loan Society - Junction of farms - Farms of ten acres - Advice to both landlord and tenant - Meaning of the term "absentee" - Contempt for leases. Kingston - Dublin - Botanic Gardens at Glasnevin - House of Industry - Rotunda Gardens - Rent of Shops in Dublin - Departure for the Country - Hay-making, and character of Irish labourers - The Scalp - Enniskerry - Powerscourt - Tinehinch - The Dargle - Bray - Cruelty to animals - Hill of Howth - Castle of Howth - Grace O'Malley - Hospitality of the Irish.
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